Liquid Nails Paneling is my favorite. Look how smooth the bead comes out.
[This post is part of our How to Install Moldings series.]
Ken’s Golden Molding Installation Rule Says:
Glue every single contact surface when installing moldings; molding to wall; molding to ceiling; molding to molding; miter to miter; scarf joint to scarf joint; cope joint to cope joint.
These are the three common Liquid Nails products you’ll run into at most any hardware or paint store. I tend not to discriminate between the products, they all work great, but my preference is for the Paneling adhesive because it is the most consistently uniform product I’ve used. It is especially good for gluing small pieces of molding together.
The beefs I have with their “Heavy Duty” and “Wood” products are:
- Viscosity Inconsistent — the glue in some tubes is dry like paste while other tubes are wet and squirt out so easily that they are hard to control.
- Over-Pressurized — Some tubes keep on squirting glue long after you’ve released the pressure from the applicator gun’s plunger. This causes a lot of waste.
I know there are formula differences between their products, but I’m talking about these inconsistencies within the same product line.
If anyone has some kind of trick to keep the glue from continuing to squirt, let us know what it is in the comment section below.
Half of this tube of glue ended up wasted because the glue would just not stop flowing.
The tube of Liquid Nails in the above photo I used just the other day while installing our kitchen crown molding. It was a shame to watch so much of the glue just pour uncontrollably onto the rag I had to keep below the nozzle. For the rest of Our Molding Makeover, I’ll make sure I buy only the Paneling adhesive.
[This post is part of our core DIY Molding Design & Installation Series.]
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Hi Ken great site! I’m in the process of buying my first house and really looking forward to tackling some molding and wainscot panels. Maybe I can send some pics of my ideas and rooms when I get myself moved in? So back to the leaking gun what I used to do when I was in construction was not only let off the trigger but I would also hit the tab in he back of the gun that holds the pressure so you could just slid the plunger freely. That tends to let all the pressure off the gun eliminating the oozing. Hope it helps 🙂
Oh yes, Alfredo, I always do that, let the pressure off by hitting the trigger and pulling back the plunger. But what we’re talking about here are tubes of glue that, once you break the seal and apply a little presser, the glue just keeps on coming — like it’s alive or something!
Perhaps I should call a Liquid Nails sales rep and see if I can get some answers. What do you think?
And yes, of course, send us some pictures, we would love that! We love to help with those sorts of things; it’s what keeps us going around here. We’ll write a post about you buying your first home (congratulations!), and if you like we’ll follow your progress with updates. And if you’re ever stuck for ideas, just ask!
Thanks for commenting!
The question is about using liquid nails to bond a pilaster to a wall for a doorway. Instead of moving the light switch, I am going to make my own light switch as well so it will fit. The problem being is that liquid nails may be in the range within the possibility of a spark from the light switch. Will this stuff be flammable and possible dangerous? I hate to ask such a question. But I know pilasters are glued on sometimes even near outlets that are not in the way but are somewhat close, possibly that could be a problem if a spark were to ignite?
I use an arc shield when extending outlets. Otherwise, that’s a question way beyond my expertise. I’d consult an electrician and Liquid Nails for the specifics.
Hi Ken
You might want to check out this caulking gun holder by Fast Cap
It has a post in the bottom that goes into themed of the caulking tube to prevent squeeze-out. Tis, combined with my personal practice of flipping the pressure tab with my thumb (as another poster already suggested above), seems to lessen this problem.
http://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/Caulked-N-Ready-3p9917.htm
On another note; lately I’ve been using Fast Caps CA glue with the spray activator on mouldings and it works well.
Regards,
http://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/Caulked-N-Ready-3p9917.htm
Thanks for the tip. I’ll see if I can buy one here in town.