I use this to glue those really small pieces of moldings together.
The trick to getting a secure bond between your two mitered faces is to allow the first smear of glue to soak into the exposed end-grain. The second coat of glue will now bond with its mating surface.
It also helps to let the glue tack up a bit before mating the two surfaces.
- Unit Price $1.67 for a 4 oz bottle
- Vendor Most hardware stores
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I use titebond (both Blue and Green). I’ve found them to do what it says on the can. Titebond 3 (Green) is weatherproof, so is good for moist conditions (kitchens, bathrooms etc.) and titebond 2 is a general purpose glue.
Keep up the good work – will post some of my efforts when I find time or rember to take a photo…
Regards Tom
I use Titebond as well, Tom. I just haven’t had time to write up a post for it yet. Looking forward to seeing your work!
Ken,
If I may ask your opinion on a window casing project. 6 huge windows in a ROG, i’d like to trim so they are all in one unit. The rest of the room is Colonial trim. I love the look of what my contractor calls “sanitary casing”. What would be a good “transitional” trim/casing to use?
A couple years ago we had a couple windows replaced, and stuck w colonial..now replacing all windows…can you suggest what to use if we are considering something old, something new? I’l try and upload pics or vid so you can see the level of ‘variety’ we’re dealing with.
Many thanks, I truly enjoy both your and Jennifer’s art and expertise!
C.
Christina, I’m a big fan of CA-001. It’s a great all-purpose traditional style molding for doors and windows. You can buy it in mdf or any other species of wood you want. Good luck!
I always use Elmer’s E7010 Carpenter’s Wood Glue. This wood glue uses real wood fibers in its formula – which helps deliver better results on staining, sanding, and painting than with regular wood glues
Thanks for the tip Laura.